Rough Guide
Here's our own rough guide to the area.
Aquashow (in Audierne) - At the time of typing, children are admitted free in the morning. There is an aquarium, a 3D cinema showing several underwater films, and a flying bird display. Some guests may find the cormorant display a bit cruel. Live fish are released into the glass walled sea water tank for the cormorants to hunt down and eat !! .... but hey this is France. The restaurant is excellent for lunch. (http://www.audierne.info/pages/tourisme/aquarium.htm)
Audierne - An active fishing port specialising in prawns and crayfish but with a surprisingly sheltered 1km long beach reaching as far as the departure point for the boats to the Isle de Sein.
Bay of Audierne - is one great long beach with great dunes, marshes and ponds scattered along its length. You will find stone crosses, old granite farms and pretty chapels and calvaries dotted along the shore. In springtime, you can stop to enjoy the tulip fields of La Pointe de la Torche, a world famous surf spot (see below) . Don't miss the ruins of the chapel of Languidou and it's mysterious rosette?
Bars/Restaurants - Ker Ansquer is a hotel/country house within walking distance and is a Logis de France (You always need to book in advance). It is exceptionally good (4 courses for 20 euros at the time of typing 08/07). (www.keransqer.fr). There are 3 good restaurants in Penhors Plage - The first one Restaurant d'Armen offers typically French food but also sells pizzas, and offers a takeaway pizza service. The other is Breiz Armor is a bit more upmarket. Located by the beach of Penhors it offers you an outstanding view of the 13 miles of seashore and specialises in sea food. It is extremely good and always packed out (www.breiz-armor.fr). The nearby Bar de l'Ocean is a bit of a "locals" bar. Karaoke nights are a hoot. There is also a creperie right on the beach. The L'hotel Capricorne in Pouldreuzic village comes highly recommended.Try the lovely little bar at Pors Poulhan situated by a little fishing harbour just a short distance up the coast - fabulous spot. The Creperie on the road to Treogat is excellent. Our favourite restaurant is Dom and Marie's: Café de la Marine in pretty Pont L'Abbe (by the harbour next to the hotel de ville). If the kids cannot manage without a Big Mac during the holiday then there is a McDonalds on the ring road in Quimper on the "Route de Benodet" !!
Beaches - The Baie de Audierne is one long beach and bodyboarding and surfing can be excellent along the whole coast. In 20 minutes you can walk from the house and be paddling your feet in the sea. The best beaches for families with small children are at Loctudy, Benodet and Ste Marine only 15-20 minutes by car.
Benodet - Has a long sandy beach and is undeniably good, especially for kids, for whom there is a lot laid on - including horseriding, windsurfing and 'mickey club' crèches. In Spring and Autumn Benodet is a strong contender to be rated the best spot for a family holiday in the whole of Brittany. Ste Marine across the river Odet by (passenger only) ferry is equally attractive. Visit on a Monday when the large outdoor market is in town but arrive early as parking can be a nightmare on Mondays. It's well worth stopping just before the Cornouaille road bridge and parking up before crossing the bridge on foot to take in the breathtaking views of the Odet. (www.benodet.fr)
Boat Trips - Visitors shouldn't fail to take a boat from Quimper and drift down the Odet: "the prettiest river in France" to the open sea at Benodet.
Château de Kériolet - Discover the incredible history and architecture of this Neogothic jewel dating from the 15th and 19th centuries and the unusual destinies of the russian imperial princess Zénaïde Narischkine Youssoupov, and her husband, the earl Charles de Chauveau, linked with the castle
Childrens Parks - The 'Domaine de Bel Air' Park at Landudec is excellent for under 12's. In a wooded site: giant water-chutes, ball pools, bouncy castle, toboggan slope, foam mountain, trampolines, acrobatic roundabout, pedal go-karts, miniature golf, and a miniature Mississippi steamboat. A little train runs all around the park + picnic areas. (www.belaircamping.com)
For thrill seekers visit Bonobo Park. This is situated behind the Geant supermarket and McDonalds on the ringroad (see above). It's an adventure playground 100 feet in the air through the trees. Don't worry you have a harness and carabineers to keep you safe. A veritable teenagers paradise but something for all ages. Our 6 and 7 year old adore the (low level) junior course. (www.bonoboparc.com)
Another super childrens park is Odet Loisirs set in 7 hectares of beautiful countryside. Young children and teenagers are well catered for. The main attraction are the two huge 175m zip slides over the lake. There is a vast hedge maze. Bouncy castles, pedalos, toboggan (scary for adults). trampolines, bikes and go carts amongst other attractions. It's a good three quarters of an hour from here but well worth the trip. Situate at Coray which is 15km west of Quimper off the D15. (www.odet-loisirs.com)
Cidrerie - Be sure to visit the local cidrerie (happily within walking distance) which sells award winning cider. You will have to battle with the locals, who cart off trolleys of the stuff, as if it was going out of fashion. They also sell the most exquisite apple juice, apple based liqueurs, whiskies and other local products. There is an opportunity for degustation before you buy. A small deposit is repaid when returning the bottles. Returning 20 or so bottles equates to enough for a fresh bottle of cider .... get drinking then!!
Concarneau - Visitors shouldn't fail to visit Concarneau whilst here. The view of the medieval walled town is one of the most photographed in Brittany and the tourist crowds flock in every summer. It's greatest asset is the beautiful Ville Close, the small, well fortified old city located a few metres off shore on a rocky island in the bay which also hosts the Musee de la Peche. (www.tourismeconcarneau.fr)
The early morning fish auction, la criée, is a great experience even if the daily business of selling the fish remains a mystery.
In mid-August, the fishermen's festival, La Fête des Filets Bleus, is one of the liveliest in Brittany with traditional music. There are boat trips out to the Iles des Glénan, a small archipelago, home to a famous sailing school and seabird sanctuaries.
Crozon Peninsular With its awe-inspiring cliffs and sensational views, the Crozon Peninsula is the most spectacular stretch of Finistère's rugged, western coast. As you approach the Crozon peninsula, it's well worth making a slight detour to climb the hill of Menez-Hom, "at the giant's feet", for a fabulous view of the land and water alternating out to the ocean. Once you have crossed the Terénez bridge, or driven from the south past Menez Hom to reach the Crozon peninsular, Camaret is undoubtedly the port to head for but it is worth taking a detour to Le Fret. This little port once specialised in the gathering of Coquilles St-Jacques and was an important route for supplies to Brest. Now only a couple of fishing boats remain among the summer pleasure boats. From there, the drive through Roscanvel and on to the pointe des Espagnols is a must. From the top of its unassailable cliffs the pointe des Espagnols has a commanding view over the Goulet de Brest, the channel into the Rade, and of Brest itself. If you are looking for solitude then some of the beaches, like La Palue on the southern arm, are always almost deserted even in the height of summer. (france-for-visitors.com/brittany/finistere/crozon-peninsula)
Cycling - Cycling is a major pastime in Finistere and there are many recommended marked road routes and in addition numerous (VTT) Mountain Bike trails. Two marked routes of varying length pass the house, as the road is a minor one with little traffic. Leaflets are usually available from the local tourist office. Cycle hire is readily available and the tourist office will be able to provide details.
Douarnenez - The west side of town houses the remarkable Port-musee. The entire waterfront is taken up with fishing and other vessels which visitors are invited to roam in and out of, up and down ladders and all over the decks, through oily metallic-smelling engine rooms and sleeping quarters divided by wooden compartments. Across the street the associated Boat Museum doubles as a working boat yard where visitors can watch and (or even join in!!) the construction of sea going vessels. There is enough here to spend a whole day but the most boat-hungry appetite may well be full slaked after half a day ........ there's always the beach or shopping afterwards!! (france-for-visitors.com/brittany/finistere/douarnenez)
Eckmühl lighthouse Inaugurated in 1897, built thanks to the generosity of the family of the Prince of Eckmühl, the lighthouse stands 65 metres above ground and it's beacon can be seen for up 30km at sea. Built from Kersanton granite, finished with bronze and opaline inside. There are 307 steps, and at the foot of the lighthouse, there is a chapel which dates back to the XVe century.
Fishing - Sea Fishing: take a boat trip with Vedettes Rosmeur at Dourarnenez or Vedettes de L'Odet in Benodet.
River/Lake fishing: Permits are required and these can be purchased at designated bars/tabacs, fishing tackle shops, sports shops etc. There is a permit seller in Quimper "Chasse et Peche Bourhis" 33 Bis Avenue de la Gare, Quimper or "Aquapeche", 36 Route de Benodet Quimper. We know nothing about fishing but the river Odet is considered especially good.
Fest-Noz - Is Breton for "Feast Night". In July and August feast nights seem to happen almost daily in the surrounding towns and villages. They are all very different, but the common theme is a slap up meal, wine aplenty, and Breton Dancing to a live band. There may be sideshows, a chance to sample some local produce, enter a crepe making competition etc. etc. We have found the locals have offered the Brits an especially warm welcome and we won the prize for 'best effort' in the crepe making at Tremeoc in 2005. The ones away from the tourist towns (in the smaller villages) are particularly quaint. The party doesn't usually get into full swing until 9.30pm but arriving early will usually avoid a queue for the meal and a seat at a table. If you get the chance you should go to one. (www.fest-noz.net)
Golf: We are told that the Golf de Cornouaille was designed by the renowned golf architect, Fred Hawtree (who? never heard of him!!). Part of the course's charm is the frequent choice the player must make between the safety shot and the daring strike according to those in the know. Undulating fairways are expansive and good use has been made of water hazards, bunkers & woodland throughout the course, which has been designed incorporating the natural beauty of the area ... allegedly. We're told there are breathtaking views over the sea to the Isles of Glenan. The clubhouse and pro shop (an 18th century converted manor) is apparently known for its relaxed and friendly atmosphere. Near Quimper (18 holes 5,682m, Par 71). (www.golfdecornouaille.com) Also Golf de L'Odet. Three miles from Bénodet, this course has been created out of more than 250 acres of woodland. It provides excellent golfing for amateur and pro alike with large bunkers, lakes, long fairways and dense woodland. On the second hole, there are enormous pine trees in one of the bunkers, which have to be cleared by a good approach shot (whatever that is). Situated at Clohars-Fouesnant. The 9 hole course serves as a warm up prior to playing the main 18. 18 holes - Par 72, 6,821 yds 9 holes - Par 27, 1,203 yds. Hope all that means something to golfers.
Horse Riding: Finistere is good riding country, with many marked routes, through exceptional scenery. There are riding schools (amongst others) at Concarneau, Quimper, Plogoff and Douarnenez who cover a range of needs from lessons to trekking.
Industrial Tourism - Finistère is home to a number of prosperous businesses, both large and small and most offer some sort of tour. These tours will give you an insight into their various trades. Find out about the manufacture of seaweed-based cosmetics, earthenware and clogs! Learn the secrets behind the making of good Breton beer, succulent buckwheat whisky or traditional bread! Visit biscuit factories, canneries and honey houses, auction houses, greenhouses and the famous "Marché au cadran" (Dial market) with its measuring dial. From printing to seaweed processing, and oyster production to coffee bean roasting, strawberry growing to restoration of old textiles - it's all here!
Indoor Play Areas - L'Hippodrome Indoor Play Zone. (English Owners). On the ring road in Quimper follow the Route de Brest until you see signs for Z.I Hippodrome. The Zone Industriale is split into ZI Hippodrome East and Z.I. Hippodrome West. The play barn is in Z.I. Hippodrome West. Follow either the Karting signs or the Hippo Signs once your on the industrial estate itself as the karting is right opposite.
Isle de Sein - Of all the Breton islands, this tiny island just 8km off the end of the Pointe du Raz, has to be the most extraordinary. Its very grip on existence seems so tenuous, that it's hard to believe anyone could truly survive here. Nowhere does it rise more than six metres above the surrounding ocean, and for much of its 2.5-kilometre length it's barely broader than the breakwater wall of bricks that serves as its central spine. In fact, the island has been inhabited since prehistoric times, and it was reputed to have been the very last refuge of the druids in Brittany. It also became famous during World War II, when its entire male population answered Général de Gaulle's call to join him in exile in England. Today, over three hundred islanders continue to make their living from the sea, gathering rainwater and seaweed and fishing for scallops, lobster and crayfish. Setting off to reach the island on a misty morning feels as though you're sailing off the edge of the world. Depending on the tide, boats pull in at one or other of the two adjoining harbours that constitute Sein's one tightknit village. There are no cars on the island, and even bicycles are not permitted. A little beach appears in front of the village at low tide, and it also holds a museum of local history packed with black-and-white photos and press clippings, and displaying a long list of shipwrecks from 1476 onwards. The basic activity for visitors, however, is to take a bracing walk. (www.ile-de-sein.net)
Karting - On a wet day head for Kartwest indoor karting in Quimper and mimick your favourite formula one driver!!. See Indoor Play Areas above for directions. 5pm till midnight most days 3pm til 1am Sat. Fast noisy and scary. (http://www.kart-west.fr/)
Kernault Manor and Park - Owned by the Department of Finistère, listed as "Monument Historique", the Manor, built in the XVth century is typical of the architecture of a Breton manor. The Manor has temporary exhibitions and hosts many events throughout the year.
Lanniron Manor and Park - Located on the left bank of the river Odet, 2 kilometres from Quimper, the Manor was for six centuries the bishops' summer residence. It hangs over terraced formal French style gardens. Today, the gardens offer an outstanding botanical collection. (www.lanniron.com)
Le Faou - A tiny medieval port, still boasting a few sixteenth-century gabled houses and set on its own individual estuary. From beside the pretty little village church - whose porch holds some intriguing carved apostles - a sheltered corniche follows the river to the sea, where there are sailing and windsurfing facilities.
Locronan - is a prime example of a Breton town that has remained frozen in time. From 1469 through to the seventeenth century, it was a successful centre for woven linen, supplying sails to the French, English and Spanish navies. The rich medieval houses of the town centre have never been superseded or surrounded by modern development. Film directors love its authenticity, even if Roman Polanski, filming Tess, deemed it necessary to change all the porches, put new windows on the Renaissance houses, and bury the main square in mud to make it all look a bit more English. The town itself is genuinely remarkable, centred around the focal Église St-Ronan. Be sure to take the time to walk down the hill of the rue Moal, where the lovely little stone chapel of Nôtre-Dame de Bonne Nouvelle holds some surprising modern stained glass, and a wooden statue of a rather depressed-looking Jesus!! (www.locronan.org)
Loctudy - A small well preserved fishing port, with beaches of fine white sand which are very well sheltered. The fishing port, the beating heart of Loctudy, has two daily sales of fish and crawfish. It has a rich heritage (religious, rural, and maritime). Not far from Benodet and well worth a visit.
Morgat - Just under an hours drive. Has a long and very sandy crescent beach much loved by windsurfers which ends beneath a pine slope and a well-sheltered harbour that's filled with pleasure boats. Popular for boat trips: the favourite is the 45 minute tour of the Grottes: Multicoloured caves in the cliffs only accessible by boat with chimneys up to the cliff tops. They run every 15 minutes in high season and are very popular, so it's best to book as soon as you arrive as you may need to wait a few hours in high season. For a really good adventure day why not try visiting by sea kayak instead. All equipment can be hired from Morgat.
Pointe du Raz - The 'Lands End' of both Finistere and France itself. Recently designated as a 'Grande Site Nationale' it makes for a dramatic spectacle. You can walk out to the plummeting fissures of the pointe filling and draining with a deafening sea roar high above on precarious paths. Don't miss the Vieille Lighthouse on the last rock, facing the Island of Sein. It keeps watch over the busiest channel in Europe, the Raz de Sein. Grippy shoes are not a bad idea and handcuff the kids to you!! (www.lapointeduraz.com)
Pont Aven: Not Brittany Ferries flagship but the small port of Pont Aven. This is where Paul Gaugin came to paint in the 1880's. Most surprisingly it has no permanent collection of his work!! Pont Aven is very pleasant, with countless galleries making it easy to while away an afternoon, and the small neat pleasure port boasts a water mill and the odd leaping salmon. Just upstream of the little granite bridge the Promenade Xavier-Grall crisscrosses the tiny river itself on landscaped walkways offering glimpses of the backs of mansions dripping with red ivy. A longer walk leads into the Bois D'Amour wooded gardens which have inspired visiting painters poets and musicians. If you can't afford a painting take home a box of the excellent 'galettes' here meaning butter biscuits (not savoury pancakes) from one of the two manufacturers in town. In summer it's possible to take a boat down to the sea at Port-Manech. (www.pontaven.com)
Pont L'Abbe - Roughly translated: Abbots Bridge. The Pays Bigouden is a traditional Breton district and Pont L'Abbe is its capital. Every year on the 2nd weekend in July, the "Fête des Brodeuses" is held as a tribute to ancient crafts and costume traditions in the Pays Bigouden area. During this weekend festival, Pont l'Abbé becomes a centre of tradition. Over 1,300 costumes, thirty or so Celtic circles, "Bagadoù" Breton music groups and international folk groups perform throughout the day, which ends with the crowning of the "Reine des Brodeuses" and a traditional Breton "fest-noz" music and dance evening. There is a good walk you can do, along the river of Pont-L'Abbe while the tide is high. It's called the "chemin du halage" where the locals walk and and jog. Each Thursday, there is a big market, "le marché du jeudi" very crowded in summer time. There are 2 museums dedicated to the Bigouden culture: the Musée Bigouden was set up in 1955 in the Castle and the Maison du Pays Bigouden was inaugurated in 1984 at the Kerazegan farm. Pretty Pont L'Abbe is well worth a visit if only for a stroll around its attractive shops.
Pouldreuzic - Has a Pharmacy, Post Office, Bar, Poissonnerie, Maison de Presse/Tabac, 8 till late shop, Boulangerie/Alimentation, Hotel/Restaurants, Petrol Station, Tourist Information, Gift Shop and newly opened boucherie.
Quimper - A beautiful medieval city full of narrow cobbled streets and half timbered houses. Simply too much to cover here. Pick up a guide and explore!!!!! The cathedral is a good starting point and don't fail to visit the Halles St Francis - not just for the food but for the view past the upturned boat rafters through the roof to the cathedrals twin spires. For those who enjoy classical music festival (semaines musicales) during the first 3 weeks of August is a must. (www.quimper-tourisme.com)
Sainte Marine - A less commercialised version of Benodet. A good main beach and it is possible to sail up the Odet to Quimper from here.
Swimming Pools - Aquarrive (behind the Geant/Mc Donalds on the ringroad) Also at Fousenant which has the longest water slide in Brittany. Tropical décor, water at 29o, giant water chute, water cannons, paddling pool and mini slides. Massage, jets, Jacuzzis, water gym for fitness and relaxation. Chaps:A new rule in France means swimming shorts are banned. The rule is strictly enforced so you may need to pick up some 'speedos' before you go as you will be asked to leave the pool if you arrive in shorts of any kind.
Ten Pin Bowling - Immediately beside Benobo Park - see Childrens Parks above.
Tourist Information Office - In the village car park.
Walks - We have photocopied several walks from Wendy Mewes publication Walking (and other activities) in Finistere. Walking is best in Spring and Autumn.
Watersports - Choose from sea and river kayaking, rowing, sand yachting, scuba diving, surfing, kite surfing, sailing, windsurfing, water skiing, boat hire, water strolls etc (www.nautismebretagne.fr)